Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park is a 22 km long glacial lake framed by soaring mountains and glaciers. The length is intersected by Fisherman’s Bay Campground at 13 km, Spirit Island at 14 km, and Coronet Creek Campground at 22 km. This backcountry paddling tour is extremely popular and campgrounds typically book up within an hour of reservations opening for the year. The lake sits at a higher elevation than Jasper townsite and the area will generally be several degrees colder.
After securing a booking on opening day for one night at Coronet Creek, I promptly reached out to Pure Outdoors in Jasper to arrange a rental. This was my fifth time renting through them and I have always had positive experiences. Canoes and touring kayaks can be rented – I chose the latter for the longer distance we’d be covering. We picked up the key for our kayak the evening before and were ready for an early start in the morning. We started just after dawn to get a head start before the Maligne Lake Cruise boats began for the day at 9:00 AM.
Maligne Lake has two parking lots. The boat launch is at the second parking lot (across the bridge). Signage indicates which dock is for canoes and kayaks and which dock is for fishing boats. Electric motors are permitted.I find it handy to memorize the peaks along the lake to aid in navigation. Samson Peak is easily recognizable by its height and marks roughly the half-way point of the lake. Fisherman’s Bay is just past the toe of Samson Peak. Leah Peak (Center) and Samson Peak (Right, in clouds) were named by Mary Schäffer for Leah and Samson Beaver. This view may be best recognized for Group of Seven painter Lawren S. Harris’ painting: Maligne Lake, Jasper Park 1924 Oil on canvas. The prominent peak to the left is Samson Peak.Nearing the toe of Samson Peak, Samson Narrows comes into view: The small notch in trees on the horizon. Samson Narrows is a ~30 m wide section of lake. Under normal conditions this presents no challenge for a kayak, but the waves created by the cruise boats can make this tricky to paddle.We left early enough that only one cruise ship beat us through Samson Narrows. Samson Peak is in the background and Samson Narrows is out of view to the right. Fisherman’s Bay is at the end of the toe of Samson Peak (Behind my head) and is accessed past Samson Narrows.After passing Samson Narrows, we needed only share the lake with the cruise boats for ~1 km until we reached Spirit Island. The boats don’t operate beyond this point, so we had the lake to ourselves for the rest of the day.Spirit Island framed by The Valley of The Gods. There is a 5 min walking trail on the shore where you can stretch your legs and socialize with tourists. Accessing the island is not permitted, however.After a break at Spirit Island, we continued on into The Valley of The Gods. The pointed-knob peak to the left is Mount Paul and the peak behind it is Monkhead Mountain. Monkhead Mountain marks the end of the lake.Looking back at Samson Peak. The two small, white flecks on the shore are cruise boats parked at Spirit Island.One of the waterfalls passed along the way.Nearing Monkhead mountain (left) and the end of the lake.Reaching the end of the lake. Coronet Creek campground is just behind the trees to the right. Two people can be seen standing on the shore. The valley to the left is sediment, not lake, despite appearances from this angle.We arrived at Coronet Creek Campground in 5 hrs. Thanks to our early start, we were left with the entire afternoon to relax.These views!The campsite is equipped with massive bear bins and several picnic tables. A large tarp covers a central fire pit and a few of the tables to provide shelter in case of rain. The campsite at Fisherman’s Bay was similarly equipped with a large tarp when I visited in a previous year.We were greeted by the resident deer while picking out our tent pads. She stayed around camp for the entire evening.She’s remarkably acclimated to people and doesn’t hesitate to go through anything left unattended (life jackets, rain coats, really anything).This deer seriously has no personal boundaries.We left early the next morning, aiming to get through Samson Narrows before the cruise boats started.Approaching Samson Peak.The dreaded Samson Narrows. We made it through ahead of the first cruise boat.After making it through Samson Narrows we slackened our pace and stopped for a break. This photo is looking back.
We paddled back to the boat launch in 4 1/2 short hours with no problems encountered. I was lucky to be paddling with two experienced friends. We made good time!
Maligne Lake has a reputation for afternoon wind, necessitating an early start, but both days we were out were completely calm. We shared the lake with the tour boats for the last 13 km out, but the waves were fairly mellow this trip. I compared to video from 2021 and it’s not just my memory. The waves were much worse for my 2021 trip, and probably closer to what should typically be expected.
Appendix
Here are a few photos from a 2021 trip to Fisherman’s Bay and Spirit Island, to assist in trip planning.
Canoes can accommodate a lot more gear than a kayak! Many people even packed coolers and camp stoves.The quiet dock is a wonderful place to spend the afternoon reading.We arrived early enough to snag a waterfront tent pad with views of Mount Charlton.One barrel toilet is shared by 8 tent pads. BYOTP. Be prepared to swap out barrels if it becomes full!The less photographed view of Spirit Island, taken from the lake looking at the shore.The boat racks near the boat launch where boats are returned and locked up.
Thanks for sharing your experience. We are going to Jasper this weekend and wasn’t sure if we would go to Maligne Lake but will now be going for sure!!
Peak Bliss 
Thanks for sharing your experience. We are going to Jasper this weekend and wasn’t sure if we would go to Maligne Lake but will now be going for sure!!
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What a glorious throne.
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